Intro

Spring in West Texas is the starting gun for golf car season. Whether you’re heading to the course or cruising the neighborhood, your vehicle has likely spent the last few months sitting idle—which is exactly when small issues turn into expensive headaches. While we recently covered the importance of oil changes for gas models, maintenance doesn’t stop at the engine. A “winter-rested” car needs a full physical to ensure it’s safe, efficient, and ready for the 100-degree days ahead. By following this simple spring checklist, you’ll save money on emergency repairs and ensure you’re never the one left stranded on the side of the road.

Battery Health: More Than Just a Charge

Even if your car stayed plugged in all winter, your batteries need a hands-on inspection. Start by checking the terminals for “the white stuff”—corrosion. This crusty buildup restricts power flow and can actually melt your battery posts if left unchecked. A simple mixture of baking soda and water with an old toothbrush will neutralize the acid and keep connections clean. For those with lead-acid batteries, now is the time to check your distilled water levels. Remember: only add water after the battery is fully charged, and never let the plates sit dry. Keeping your connections tight and your water levels correct is the single best way to avoid a $1,500 battery replacement mid-summer.

Tire Pressure: The Secret to Range and Comfort

Did you know that for every 10-degree drop in temperature over the winter, your tires likely lost about 1 PSI? Driving on underinflated tires creates “rolling resistance,” which forces your motor to work harder and drains your battery significantly faster. For most standard golf cars, the “sweet spot” is between 18 and 22 PSI, though you should always check the sidewall for your specific tire’s recommendation. While you’re down there, look for “dry rot” or flat spots from sitting in the garage. Properly inflated tires don’t just give you a smoother ride; they protect your suspension and extend your battery life.

Brakes and Steering: Safety First

In the rush to get back out on the road, safety is often the most overlooked component. Before your first long trip, perform a simple brake test: the pedal should feel firm and catch well before it hits the floor. If you hear a high-pitched squeak or a grinding metal-on-metal sound, your brake shoes are likely worn thin and need immediate replacement. Additionally, check your steering for “play.” If the wheel feels loose or unresponsive, it may need a simple greasing of the steering rack or an adjustment to the tie rods. In a neighborhood full of kids and pets, being able to stop and steer with precision is non-negotiable.

Conclusion

A little bit of “elbow grease” in May goes a long way in July. By taking thirty minutes to clean your terminals, check your tires, and test your brakes, you are protecting both your wallet and your passengers. If you run into a problem you can’t solve—or if you just want a professional to give your rig a 20-point “Summer Ready” inspection—give us a call. At Golf Cars of West Texas, we’re here to make sure your only worry this summer is your golf score.

FAQ

How often should I clean my battery terminals?

In the West Texas heat, we recommend a quick visual check once a month. If you see even a small amount of blue or white fuzz starting to form, clean it immediately to prevent power loss.

Can I use a regular car tire inflator for my golf car?

Yes, but be careful! Golf car tires are much smaller than truck tires and reach their target PSI very quickly. Use a handheld gauge to check frequently so you don’t overinflate and cause a blowout.

What kind of water should I put in my batteries?

Always use distilled water. Tap water contains minerals that can create a “bridge” between the internal plates of your battery, leading to a short circuit and permanent damage.

Why does my golf car feel “bouncy” after sitting all winter?

You likely have “flat spots” from the weight of the car sitting on one part of the tire for months. Usually, these will smooth out after a few miles of driving once the rubber warms up and you’ve adjusted the air pressure.